Lill's Quilt Rack: Part VIII A Cross Piece To Hold A Quilt
With the joints at base of the legs and the shelf done, I once again dry assembled the quilt rack. This time I took blanks for the cross pieces and set them on the shelf, adjacent to their respective legs. By marking the cross pieces directly off the legs at this point I was able to accurately determine the length and ensure that the legs would remain parallel once the cross pieces were installed. I cut the cross pieced to length with my table saw.
|The cross piece blanks are ready|
to be marked.
I then took the cross pieces and fit them between the top of the legs, making a simple pencil mark spanning the legs and cross pieces at each of the six points where they met. These marks were centered across the cross piece by eye and served as the reference points off of which I milled the dominos. I used the Domino fence to reference off the front of the legs and the cross pieces, adjusting the depth to the middle of the legs (again by eye, this needn’t be perfect).
To mill the dominos I simply took out the cross pieces. I domioed them on the bench and dominoed the legs as they stood, dry fit to the shelf.
|I had forgotten to mention, I miss milled a domino.|
I plugged it and later cut it flush.
Using the domino mortises to determine the center line, I marked out lines down the length of each leg 1” wide (1/2” on each side of the center). These lines would indicate the width of the cross pieces along most of their length. The ends would flair, so I used a French curve to mark a large concave curve extending from each corner of the cross piece to the center line.
|The french curve was used to flair from the 1" line to the corner.|
I used a thick pencil mark to indicate the cut line, which running from corner to corner was French curve to straight line at 1” width back to French curve. I cut these line on the band saw. Because they would all receive major shaping, I cut close to or on the line and didn’t worry about going back with a template and router. Each cross piece was different and they need not perfectly match each other. I took the rough cut cross pieces and dry assembled once again.
|Cross piece blanks, fresh off the saw.|
The dominos hold the cross pieces flush with the face of the legs. Because the legs curved back and the cross pieces were milled square, this left the cross piece proud of the front of the legs at the top and bottom of the cross piece and proud of the back of the legs along the entire length of the cross piece. I marked the line of the back of the legs onto the cross pieces and pull them off once again.
|The line is scribed even with the back of the legs.|
I used two (2) drops of NexaBond glue to re-attach the cross piece cutouts. Because the tips of the cross pieces were now a bandsaw blade kerf proud of the glued in cutout, I trimmed the proud edges flush with my block plane (yes, a plane!). Using the table saw, I ripped the back of each cross piece just proud of the line I had marked. The leg curve was subtle enough that the straight table saw rip was pretty damn close. I used a heavy rubber mallet to knock off the off cuts and dry fit the cross pieces yet again.
|Nice & flush with the face of the legs.|
During this dry assembly I took my Shinto Rasp and shaped the front and back faces of the cross pieces flush with the legs. The quilt rack was now dry fit with everything cut to size. It was time to begin the shaping.
Next time, we'll begin the shaping. For all the Lill's Quilt Rack Posts, click here.
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