The Greenwich Frame, Part II: Fabrication Begins


Construction began by mocking up the frame with some peg board scraps I had. Once I was satisfied with the dimensions, I milled the walnut. Luckily, I had success with a new jointing technique and didn’t turn any of my walnut into wedges while I was milling the the frame.
A holy version of my frame.
After quickly cutting the four, rectangular frame pieces to size, I used my new Woodpecker spacer blocks to relatively dimension the table saw fence and blade location. I then quickly cut the rabbets in the rails using two passes on a standard table saw combination blade. For the stopped rabbets on the stiles, I first marked the rail locations so that I would know where to stop. I then milled the stile rabbets using a router and a bearing guided rabbeting bit.
I made the rabbets in the stiles a little extra long. By going long, I didn't have  to square them off.
Once the rabbets were completed, I broke out the trusted Domino and milled my joinery. I again used my Woodpecker spacer blocks and referenced all the Dominos using the integral alignment pins and relative dimensioning.
Everything is made better with relative dimensioning.
Once dominoed, it was time to mill the cloud lift in the upper rail. To do this I made a very simple jig that held the workpiece and Marc’s templete and allowed me to bring the piece to a bearing guided flush trim bit in the router table. I didn’t initally clamp the templete tight enough and it drifted, but I was able to simple enlarge the cloud lift sightly, re-clamp and carry on. It was only a slight enlargement and no one but you (dear reader) is the wiser.
My quickie cloud lift fabrication setup.
With the rails and stiles now completely cut and shaped, I broke out my new DeWalt DWP611PK and put an ⅛” roundover on all the exposed frame edges.

When the shaping was finally over, I sanded the parts. This was a simple matter of hitting their faces with 80, 150 & 180 grit paper on a random orbit sander and using corresponding grit sanding sponges on the edges and round overs.

Next up, plugging the frame.

Dyami PlotkeFrames